Ljubljana-Hiking-Šmarna Gora

A view of  Šmarna Gora from the castle

Slovenians are inherently active people, and it’s no wonder why, with such diversity of outdoor attractions within such a small country. From the Alps to the Adriatic Sea in less than 3 hours, there is no shortage of outdoor day trips that one could do while visiting this country.

If you are looking for an adventurous and physically demanding hike while staying in Ljubljana you don’t even have to leave the city, because every Ljubljanians favorite weekend trip is within the city limits. Seen off in the distance from the top of the Ljubljana castle, Šmarna Gora is a towering example of Slovenian activity.

Originally believed to be one of the places that the Virgin Mary sat and rested, it’s had a chapel sit atop it since at least the 14^th century. It acted as a view point to keep watch for the swarming Turks that were viciously making their way into Europe. Because of the difficult terrain of the mountain, the hill top fortification was never taken by the Turks.

At the top you can sit at the old fortification, which is also a church, and drink some beer or tea while enjoying a breathtaking panorama of Ljubljana and the surrounding mountains. Make sure to ring the bell when you reach the top for good luck!

All you need to get there is bus number 8. It takes about 40 minutes to get to the trail head, but beware because the bus has an odd schedule on the weekend. You can catch the bus a number of places in the center. Start early and make it a day trip. Don’t miss one of the essential things that makes energetic and active Ljubljana what it is.

Warsaw-Hiking-Świder River

One of the exceptional things about Warsaw is the nature that enfolds it. Large parts of the city are just massive forests of pines, birches, and oaks, and another large percentage is taken up by beautifully maintained parks, like the Łazienki Park near the center of the city. It's really a part of the identity of this city, and you can feel a lot of appreciation for nature in general by the local Varsovians. 

On top of the nature within the city, just outside of Warsaw you can find absolutely lovely day hikes. Undoubtedly one of the best is walking along the Świder River towards the Wisła. This provides a wild setting packed with lots of different micro-environments, and a stunning merger with one of the most important rivers in Europe. 

The merger of the Świder and the Wisła

So how to get there? You will be pleasantly surprised. All you need to do is go to Warszawa Śródmeście station and get on a suburban train. You can take either a red S1 or a green KM7 (you'll need to buy a Zone 2 ticket as you will be leaving Warsaw). Get off at the station named Świder and walk north (the opposite direction that your train is going) along the tracks. Take a left at the river and follow it until you hit the Wisła. If you want to head back to Warsaw when you're done then try to end on the right bank of the Świder when you hit the Wisła.

Getting back to Warsaw is also easy. Walk north along the Wisła for a little while and when you see a chance to go inland you can get to a road that's labeled as 801 on the map (It'll be the first main road you see). All the buses on this road go into Warsaw.

There a few strange things you can see during this hike. I won't spoil all of them, but if you go far enough north along the Wisła you can end up in one of the creepiest, but also most interesting spots in Warsaw, a nude beach! But be careful, because you won't find any pretty young women there, only old men who tend to follow any woman they see. If you end up here, I suggest making a hasty exit, as the vibe can get a little weird. This is quite far from the Świder though, and it's actually a little hard to get to (about 4-5 hours from where you started). 

Parts of the river are so shallow that you can walk in it if the weather is permitting

Don't let the creepy old men deter you! The best thing about this hike is that from the moment you get off of the train you'll always be enveloped in wonderful nature. So if you have a free day to kill in Warsaw, take a train to the Świder. Of course only if the weather is good. 

An old tree

Warsaw-History-Fort Bema

Fort Bema is a hidden gem in Warsaw. It doubles as a lovely park and intriguing historical site, and if you have time while visiting the city it's a must-go.

It's not hard to get to, and here's a little bit of history.

The system of Russian forts surrounding Warsaw

Built by the Russian Empire in the years 1886-1890, it was part of a system of 29 forts built around the city of Warsaw. The system was conceived after a failed Polish uprising against the Russian Empire in 1830. The initial structure built was the more well-known citadel, built as an immediate response and used to house prisoners before they were sent off on the long trek to Siberia. The complex of forts was slowly developed over the next half-century and eventually Fort "P" became a part of that system. It was known as Fort "P" because many forts were named after the first letter of the district or village that they resided in, for example Fort "M" (Mokotów) or Fort "W" (Wola).

Humorously, after the Russo-Japanese war in 1905 the Russians found that the system of forts was becoming ineffective and the cost to maintain them was too high, so they began dismantling them in 1909. "We don't need these forts," they said. Four years later in 1913, when the international scene was becoming volatile, they reversed their decision and began to prepare the forts for war. "Actually, we need these forts to defend ourselves!" But during WW1 the forts were never used, as they retreated out of Warsaw before any battle could take place. "Why did we build these forts in the first place?"

During WW2 the fort was successfully defended by 200 Polish soldiers during the siege of Warsaw, up until the city's capitulation to the Germans. During the occupation it was used as a weapons warehouse, and was attacked numerous times by the Polish underground resistance. After the war the fort housed a number of German prisoners. I was not able to find out what happened to them.

After being used by the military for the rest of the century, in 1999 it was converted into a beautiful recreational area, and now it is one of the best preserved forts in Warsaw.

One of the attractive things about the fort now is how it's used by local artist. There are a number of well-done artistic pieces throughout it's interior.

Like I said, it's not difficult to get there. From the center of Warsaw you can take the metro north to the station Stare Bielany, then hop on bus 197 going south-west towards Ursus-Niedźwiadek. It takes about 30 minutes from the center. Enjoy!

Lyon-Art-The Abode of Chaos

The Abode of Chaos, or La Demeure du Chaos in French, is one of the finest contemporary art museums on the planet. It's not a surprise that it is located in France, which has a strong history of progressive artwork. Oscillating between a source of pride for the local Lyonnais and a general disdain for the surrounding neighbors, it's a controversial building that deserves your attention if you are ever to visit Lyon.

It was transformed from a traditional French mansion in 1999 by its owner Thierry Ehrmann, who happens to also be the worlds most successful art appraiser. The house has been considered everything from an apocalyptic waste to a symbol of freedom of expression in its purest form.

What you'll find there is exactly why you should be excited to go. It is unhindered political expression, a regurgitation of pop culture icons, a blatant reminder that death and destruction are inseparable from life; every individual word inscribed or head painted on the wall will have you thinking about the deeper meaning, and that is a big part of why this museum is so successful (over 200,000 likes on facebook). Not to mention the fact that it is also free to visit!

It is located in the small village of Saint-Romain-au-Mont-D'Or and is only open for 4 hours everyday. To get there is a little difficult and it's best you have a car. It takes about 30 minutes to drive there from the center of Lyon. But you can also take a train from the central Lyon-Perrache to the north and get off at the Gare de Albigny-Neuville. From there it's about a 20 minute walk to the west.

A street in Saint-Romain-au-Mont-D'Or

Take your time and enjoy everything that Ehrmann's expression of life has to offer. Also, make sure to research some of the legal and social debates that are going on about the house. In 2009 Erhmann was ordered by the French court to revert the complex back to its original design. What do you think? Should he comply with the law and appease his neighbors and critics, or should he continue to argue for his freedom to express contemporary life on his property?

LA GUERRE DES DRONES A COMMENCÉ from La Demeure du Chaos on Vimeo.

Warsaw-History-St. Augustine's Church

When I first saw this photo of a lone building standing among the ruins of Warsaw, I was fascinated by the tall tower that survived the horrors of WWII. I wanted to know more about the church, where to find it; why it stood standing; when it was built; etc. Today it's located near the famous Kino Femina, you can get off at the stop of the same name, and then from there it's a five minute walk north on Ulica Jana Paweł II. Here's some of the history about this monument of survival:

The church was finished in 1896 due to a large donation from the Countess Alexandra Potocka. If I did my research correctly, her 300,000 rubles in today's terms would equal somewhere around 6.2 million dollars.  

The first mass was held on December 10th, 1896. From that point on the church operated peacefully in the heart of Warsaw, up until the war began in 1939. When the ghetto walls went up in 1940, it was located within them, and at this point ceased to give services. It became the home for two men of religion, the parish priest and the vicar. Both of them ended up dying during the conflict. The priest, Father Franciszek Garncerek, was shot at the door of his vicarage, and the vicar, Leon Więckiewicz, was deported to a concentration camp after it was found out that he had been helping his Jewish neighbors.

In 1942 the Jews in the ghetto of Warsaw were systematically rounded up and deported to their deaths, and at this point the church became a warehouse for stolen Jewish property. Eventually the church was turned into a stable, where horses fed and rested. During the 1944 Warsaw Uprising the high tower was used as a vantage point for a German machine gunner, but was damaged by the Polish assault. After the Poles lost in the Uprising the Germans made a point to destroy what was left of Warsaw, inch by inch, stone by stone. 

The story of the church's survival is ambiguous, and it's not known exactly why its destruction never happened, because there was certainly a plan to blow it up, but somehow this did not come to fruition. But because of this abiguity we are left with these stunning photographs of a city left in ruins, with this lone ranger standing high above the rubble.

The church may not be the most awe-inspiring structure in Warsaw, but it is certainly worth a look at, if only to get involved in the dramatic history of this city. Imagine the streets around you being part of the ghetto, or picture the opening mass from 1896, or pretend you are walking on top of the ruins of destroyed Warsaw. Whatever fits your imagination. This tower rises like a man with weary eyes that had stared at the face of annihilation, but survived and is now carrying the weight of history. 

The church seen today

Warsaw-Cafes

'Cafe' in Polish is 'kawiarnia,' and during the bleak Varsovian winter these places are a necessity to keep you going. Often times they can be cool hangout spots for locals and tourists alike, and if you're like me and you love exploring the things that give cities their true identities, then sometimes you needn't look further than its cafe culture. The problem with Warsaw is that there is no cafe district, meaning that all of the unique cafes are spread out over the city, and not clumped together into one little convenient hipster area. It's hard to stumble on to one without really knowing where you are going.

If you're in Warsaw and want to grab an interesting cup of joe in a better cafe than your typical chain, then here is a list of some good discoveries in this city on the Wisła.

MiTo

This is a true modern art cafe. Styled in a futuristic sleek way, it often has a new collection on display in its gallery room. You can sit everywhere, including among the gallery, and the space is comfortable and friendly. It has a great selection of books, mostly in Polish, but a few in English, and most of the titles are not something you would find in a common bookstore. The location is awesomely set right next to Constitution Square, which has a heavy communist theme, with lots of monumental architecture. It's also conveniently just a few tram stops from the center. The only problem I have is the quality of the coffee. I wouldn't say it's the best tasting. In fact if you're looking for a good cup of joe I wouldn't recommend going here, but if you're looking for a cool atmosphere to read, meet friends, or just relax, then this is definitely a good spot for you.

Crux

This is the kind of place you're not going to find unless you're looking. It's located in a courtyard off of Hoża in a cool old brick building that kind of gives you a pre-war vibe, even though it's hard to say how long the building has been around. Go upstairs and you find a spacious cafe/restaurant with a large window looking on to the bouldering walls (it doubles as a bouldering gym). It's really an awesome place just to hang out, and it's got a wooden loft with some couches, you can climb up the ladder and sit down on them. The place is decorated with an outdoorsy mentality, and it fits the theme of climbing and coffee. They have cheap meals until 15:00, and the coffee is good quality. It's hard to stumble across, but it's very close to the center. You just need to know where to look!

Cofeina

A typical student cafe. You will find a lot of students from the Polytechnic University that's just across the street. The decor is a bunch of pop culture references, and it's got a lot of places to sit with friends or by yourself to do your work. Coffee is cheap and good, and even though it can feel a little claustrophobic (kind of like sitting in a university cafeteria) it still manages to pull off a chill vibe, and it's much better than going to one of those bland chain cafes. 


Galeria Sztuka

An awesome stop across the Wisła. It's got a high-end chic feel to it, with fine cuisine, and handmade furniture for sale. It's in the Praga district, which has the reputation for being a little more artistic than the center of Warsaw, and it's not far from the recently opened 2nd metro line, specifically station Dworzec Wileński. Everything is top quality and it's cheaper than most places you will find in the center. It makes for a good day trip in order to go out and explore different parts of Warsaw. 

Czuły Barbarzyńca (Tender Barbarian)

The cafe that wins the coolest name award. This is a true bookstrore/cafe, loaded with shelves of books that close you inside an intimate atmosphere. It's a world class chill out spot. If you want to get out of the rain, or loose yourself in a book, or have some delicious pastries while talking with a friend, this is one of your best bets in Warsaw. It's fairly close to the old town, and even closer to the awesome BUW, so it's convenient to stop by for a rest during a walking tour, and now with the second metro line, the station Centrum Nauki Kopernik, it's incredibly easy to get back to the center. I highly recommend this one-of-a-kind place!

Szpilka

Szpilka is near the embassy district, and located on Three Crosses Square. It's a posh feeling cafe, and isn't really a place for a backpacker, but it has the advantage of being open 24 hours, which is not so common in Warsaw. The food is nice, the coffee is nice, but everything is a little pricey. The location is beautiful though, and it's a prime area for taking a nice walk. I would go here for a rest, but it's not the kind of cafe you could spend an entire rainy day in, if you know what I mean.

Fenomenalna

Super place, with few customers. Every time I've been here the place has been nearly empty, even though it's attached to the University of Warsaw library, and that place is busy all of the time. Maybe I'm not going at the right time, but seriously this place deserves more customers. It's very spacious, with a whole bunch of hammocks for chairs, and a lot of reading material in English and Polish. I was reading about the history of Scottish art just the other day (while wearing a Scottish Football Association shirt! What a coincidence! I'm not Scottish btw). There is a nice family atmosphere here, I often see parents with their children. They serve coffee with a yummy cookie, unlike almost everywhere else I've been. Also, it's in probably the coolest building in all of Warsaw, the BUW, which is a library with a rooftop botanical garden, built in a fin de siecle style.

Amatorska

The last cafe on this list is, in my opinion, more of a traditional local cafe. It's got a purveying feel of 1970's Warsaw, and it's usually housing a combination of old men smoking and drinking, and some hipster looking youngsters. But despite all this it's a cool place to visit. The service is very friendly, and it's a nice place to chill. The best part is the location, which is right on the most touristic street in Warsaw, Nowy Świat, and it's fantastic as a resting spot after a long day of touring this part of Warsaw. You can smoke inside, under a machine, but I don't really know how it works, and you can also grab a beer or a bite to eat. If you want a little throwback style, then check this place out.

If you really need a chain then here a list of the chains in Warsaw, ordered by their quality. But remember they are more expensive and less creative!

1. Nero Cafe
2. Rue de Paris
3. Starbucks
4. Costa Coffee




Have you been or lived in Warsaw? Do you know some more cool cafes to stop by and hang out in? Let me know what places I missed that deserve some recognition in the comments. Safe travelling to all of you.